In general, you should at least have some maintenance knowledge of your bicycle, such as adjusting your derailleurs and changing your tires or tubes. If you don't have these skills, you can practice these tasks on your bike or a friends bike, or just start this project anyway.
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If you are using disc brakes, now is a good time to attach the rotors. Take care not to touch the braking surface as any oil on the brake permanently decreases its performance. Make sure that the rotor is attached in the correct direction. There are normally arrows indicating the direction the rotor will spin when your bike is rolling forward.
Note: if you do not have a press-fitting tool, you may consider getting this job done by a bike shop. These tools are fairly expensive compared to the cost of installation at a bike shop, and press fit bottom brackets are somewhat difficult to work with.
Installing the headset is the most difficult step of assembling a bicycle. Furthermore, a proper crown race installation tool is fairly expensive. This would be a good step to get done at a bike shop.
If you do not have a headset press, you can either make one with some washers and a long bolt, or have this job done at a bike shop. Otherwise, assemble your headset press around your headset and frame (see photo above). Tighten the headset press until the headset is fully inserted into the frame. Slide the fork into the headtube. Place any washers included with the headset and the dust cap over the steerer tube and slide them down, flush with the top bearing of the headset.
Before cutting the steerer tube, decide where to cut it by attaching the stem and any spacers you want to achieve your desired handlebar position. I suggest putting more spacers rather than less so that, as you adjust your position on your bike, you have greater room to make adjustments. Once you have decided on a position for your stem and handlebars, mark where you will cut with a marker or screwdriver. Remove the fork from the frame. Make a second line 3mm below the line you just marked. This second line is the line that you will actually cut. Place the fork in your saw guide and clamp it. If you have a vice, you can lock the saw guide into the vice to facilitate cutting. Using a hacksaw, saw through the steerer tube. Take the fork out of the saw guide. If the cut edges are rough, sand them down. Reinstall the fork to the frame and reattach the stem and handlebars.
To adjust the derailleurs, you generally need to adjust the upper limit screw, lower limit screw, and the barrel adjuster. First, shift your derailleur into its lowest setting. Use the lower limit screw to adjust the location of the derailleur so that it lines up with the lowest cog. repeat the same process with the upper limit screw and the highest cog. Make sure that your derailleur can shift into the highest and lowest gears. Next, screw the barrel adjuster in and out until you reach a point where the derailleur shifts smoothly between all gears. Shift through all of the gears, up and down, to make sure that your bike shifts smoothly through the full range of gears.
Go over each bolt you installed and make sure that everything is tight. You should consider taking your bike to a bike shop to have them make sure you assembled your bike correctly. Finally, you should be ready to ride! Make sure to wear a helmet!
You can connect to a Di2 bike either wirelessly, over Bluetooth, or using the charger or diagnostics tools. If you're using wireless, use E-Tube Project Cyclist - more on that further down this page.
It is important to realise that, in order to use the mobile apps, your bike must have a wireless (BluetoothLE) module installed. These do not come standard on road bikes, but on mountain bikes and E-bikes these are usually included in the main junction box. Having problems with your wireless module? I've written a Di2 Wireless/BluetoothLE troubleshooting guide to help you out.
If you want to know for sure, have a look at the E-Tube Compatibility charts - all BluetoothLE capable components have a Bluetooth logo next to the model code. You can figure out what components are installed on your bike by connecting it to a Windows computer.
As you might get from the name, it is meant to be used by professionals. Bike mechanics working with bikes on a daily basis. As such, it is no longer compatible with the SM-BCR2 battery charger or the older SM-PCE1.
The E-Tube Project desktop software is a tool used by both bike shop mechanics and home users. You use the software by connecting your charger to the main junction box and plugging the other end into a USB port on a Windows computer or laptop.
You can download the Shimano E-Tube Project desktop app from the E-Tube Project Archive page. There is also a manual available online and that can be found here: Shimano E-Tube Project desktop manual.
Along with 20+ other leading bike companies, Cannondale is proud to be a part of the e-bike battery recycling program organized by PeopleForBikes and administrated by the not-for-profit Call2Recycle. Your payment of $15 goes to an industrywide fund that ensures batteries from Cannondale e-bikes are recycled at end of life and do not end up in landfills. Learn more at Call2Recycle.
View our library of instruction manuals for help with Product Assembly. Instruction manuals are listed alphabetically. Please scroll through the list to find the manual you are looking for. Click on the link to download a PDF of the instruction manual. If you cannot find the manual for the toy you are looking for please give us a call at 1-800-321-0183. Little Tikes offers replacements parts for purchase on select products. Click here to visit our Replacement Parts website.
Bike Smart: The Official Guide to Cycling in New York City is a helpful handbook with information on making your cycling trip safer and easier, including tips on using newer bike facilities such as protected lanes and bike boxes, and basic tips for locking your bicycle. NYC DOT distributes up to 325,000 copies per year of the New York City Bike Map, which contains the most important rules of the road highlighted in the Bike Smart Guide.
Indoor cycling is all the rage at the moment. It seems like every cycling brand now has something to offer this burgeoning market, with recent releases including indoor bikes from Wahoo, Stages and SRM, and indoor-specific cycling kit from Madison and Le Col.
High-end smart bikes such as the Stages Cyling SB20, Wattbike Atom and Wahoo Kickr Bike, offer fully integrated indoor training solutions for those looking to squeeze every last watt out of their virtual training and racing sessions.
On a flat road, the absolute amount of power someone can produce is a key metric. But when the road goes uphill you also have to overcome the force of gravity, and the greater your total mass (body and bike), the more power is required to accelerate to, or maintain, a certain speed.
Numerous backcountry gravel roads and trails wind through the Superior National Forest and into some of the most breathtaking country ever to roll beneath your bike. Pick up an official Cook County Highway Map or the official Superior National Forest Visitor Map for a comprehensive list of all roads and bike trails nearby as well as bike rentals, gear, guided tours and more.
Winter fat tire bikes gracefully float over every kind of terrain due to their build and they are very noticeable. As in very big tires. Make that fat tires. One of the fastest growing winter sports now has a prime presence in Cook County. Our area was made for fat tire biking!
Fat bikes are built around frames with wide forks and stays to accommodate the wide rims and soft rubber for the tires. And those tires are made to ride on soft, unstable terrain, such as snow, rocks, bogs and mud. Cook County, Minnesota has all those ingredients, and the best snow bike trails nearby to suit your pedaling pleasure!
Now unless you have money to burn, be careful when building your own bike. If you go for expensive components in every category, the total cost can go through the roof. You can literally spend several thousands of dollars.
If you are thinking about building wheels from all the individual components, you might want to reconsider. Putting together the hub, spokes, and rim require a lot of skill and practice to get it right. For beginner bike builders, it makes sense to shop for pre-built wheel sets.
Some readers might not even know what a quick release is as they are rapidly going out of style. These are the axles that help hold the wheel onto the bike. Quick releases (QR) have a lever that you open to remove the wheel from U shaped fork or frame dropouts.
This might be one of the most unnoticed bike parts until something goes wrong. The headset is a collar-like set of bearings that inserts into the vertical front tube of the bike, and the fork slides inside of it. The headset allows for smooth steering while keeping the steerer tube and fork together working as a single unit.
LATE ADD: Post-publication, TPC's Spencer Powlison wrote me to let me know of a video in TPC's library on how to find your serial number. I thought it worth inserting here, as this will be an "evergreen" article to which we refer, in particular when answering questions about buying/selling used on our Reader Forum (where we have a curated thread on the subject). I was really worried when I got to the part in the intake process where the serial number was asked for. But it's right there, on all bikes, and this video walks you thru it.
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